We're on Safari!

Breakfast this morning included a traditional African

 sweet porridge made with maize.  It reminded me of semolina custard and it was delicious. Up early and on the road again by 8.

   We have a hitchhiker with us for part of the trip today.  She is a young mother with  two small, beautiful and well behaved children.  As there is very little in the way of public transport in Namibia hitch hiking is a normal way of life.  There are designated spots where people sit patiently to wait for any ride that might come along.  They make a donation towards petrol, if they can, or offer produce in return for the lift. The scenery this morning is a bit uninspiring, flat countryside and bare trees, but before long we stop at the petrified forest at Khorixas.  Boy, talk about feeling insignificant in the history of the world!  These petrified trees are estimated to be between 250 and 280 million years old.  Apparently they are from a northern part of Africa and were washed down to Namibia in a  flood, of biblical proportions, all those years ago. 


It is fascinating to see what look like normal tree trunks but are now solid stone, scattered around the landscape,  their growth rings still obvious. The forest is a national monument  and also contains many examples of the most unusual plant I have ever seen, the welwitschia mirabilis.  This plant is one of a kind, there is nothing else like it on earth.  It consists of a stem base and two leaves only, however the leaves tend to get shredded into several strands by the wind.  The average age of these plants is 500 to 600 years old but they can live up to 2000 years.  

 



We stop at the town of Outjo to stock up on food and water before travelling to the Etosha game reserve where supplies will be limited.  The supermarket is well stocked and busy and we are intrigued by the guard who stands at the door with a whip which he uses quite freely on anyone who looks like a beggar, thief, or nuisance.  Fortunately none of us fit that category!! We are captivated by a woman from the Himba tribe who is walking proudly through the main street.  Her bare breasted body and hair are smeared with a mixture of butter and ochre giving it a red sheen..  She walks with an easy grace which I find quite beautiful. 

  We drive on for another hour and a half until we arrive at the gates to Etosha Game Park.  It is thrilling to drive through the gates and see the signs warning people not to leave their cars.  We are staying at Okaukuejo, a beautiful, huge complex within the park with every type of accommodation available from luxurious to  basic camping. There is a very smart restaurant and three swimming pools.  We waste no time going to the pools and find the water surprisingly cold but divinely refreshing. The camp site overlooks a water hole where the wild animals come to drink.  We wander down to look and are thrilled to see a rhinoceros there.  This evening we have a delicious meal of macaroni, stroganoff, lentils and squash....Jonas is a mighty fine cook!. 

After dinner we go back to the waterhole which is

on a lower level and fenced off from the camp.   At night it is softly floodlit and there is seating within the camp where people sit quietly waiting to see the animals arrive.  It is a stunning sight...out of the darkness come zebra, two very affectionate elephants, two adult rhinoceros with a baby and about a dozen giraffes with several black backed jackals running around amongst them all.  The animals arrive  in stages and it is clear there is a pecking order for who drinks at the water first.  It is fascinating to watch the interplay between animals.  The whole scene is marvellous and rather surreal.  Despite my best intentions, and despite not wanting to miss anything, I start to doze off ..... it's time for bed.




Photos: (1) Our adorable hitch hiker, (2) 250 million year old petrified tree, (3) The extraordinary welwitschia mirabilis, about 500 years old, (4) Great excitement! We enter Etosha Game Park, (5) Hilary and I enjoy a swim at Okaukuejo Camp, (6) Rhinoceros at the camp water hole